How to Spend a Week in Oaxaca: Markets, Monte Albán and Mountain Adventures

Oaxaca is the proverbial trifecta, a combination of things that always get my blood flowing: history, culture, and natural beauty. If I were to add a fourth factor, it would be that there is a daily nonstop flight from Mérida that gets you on the ground in under two hours.

The capital city of the state with the same name, Oaxaca’s history spans nearly 3,000 years. The entire region had a thriving advanced civilization made by indigenous Mesoamericans. The area comprised basically two groups: the Zapotec and the Mixtec. Each group has a distinct culture and name, “The Cloud People” and “People of the Rain,” respectively. It is estimated that before the arrival of the Spanish, the Oaxaca valley had over a million inhabitants.

Both groups were highly developed and, like the Maya on the Yucatán Peninsula, were advanced thinkers. The Zapotecs developed their own writing system, were skilled builders, engineered water works, and created one of the earliest calendars in Mesoamerica. Around 500 BCE, they established the city of Monte Alban, built atop a mountain they flattened. The site is open to the public and is just the tip of the iceberg of what this region has to offer.

Like any neighbors, at times, both groups did not always get along, and often had conflicts. The Mixtecs did influence the region, and there is evidence that they took control of the site known as Mount Alban and of Mitla, known as the “Place of the Dead.” Unlike Mount Alban, which served primarily political purposes, Mitla was a major religious and burial site for many centuries. Both groups brought their own characteristics to these sites, which I found fascinating and educational. This area of Mexico was founded long before the Mayans migrated to the Yucatán.

Back in 1521, Cortés had his own idea of what treasure was, and no doubt had a hand-drawn map showing where it could be found. As if defeating the Aztecs wasn’t enough of a challenge, he set his sights on the Valley of Oaxaca. He knew there was gold in them there hills, and he wanted it all for the crown. In November of 1521, the King of Spain, Charles I, granted Hernán Cortés the title of Marqués del Valle de Oaxaca. It’s been over 500 years, and you can still walk on the same cobblestones as Cortés did. Visitors can relive the history of this vast region, one step at a time, along its narrow streets. Around every corner in this significant city, there is a treasure trove to discover; after all, it is all part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Where to start is the first thing that comes to mind. I highly suggest downloading Google Maps on your smartphone. There was a time when a paper map was the only way to navigate your travels. I’m still a bit old school, as I carry one along with a small notebook. If I do find the treasure, I want to mark it on the map; pinning it is not half as romantic.

A week in the area would be enough time to absorb its vibe and learn about the history that took centuries to create. I like to start at the beginning: the Zocalo. Like most Spanish Colonial cities, the Zocalo is the epicenter of life, and the grid of streets is so very Spanish and easy to navigate.

Since its early beginnings, second to the gold, religious conversion was the goal. Cortés and his conquistadors had orders not only from the King, but also from the Pope to convert the indigenous to Catholicism. Along came the Franciscans and the Dominicans to establish missions and build churches and cathedrals that rival Rome.

The standout place of worship is on the north side of the Zocalo, made of local Cantera stone and with a distinct green hue. The Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of Assumption has had a turbulent past, like the city. It was started in 1535 and built upon the ruins of a local temple; this was common practice, after all, they already had an audience on the site. The construction process took several years, with a few iterations, because of several earthquakes. Finally, in 1733, they thought it was finished, and it was duly consecrated. Well, as fate would have it, another major earthquake struck in 1931. Luckily, only the bell towers needed to be rebuilt.

When you visit, take a moment to absorb the majesty of the creators, listen to the music from the street, and smell the aroma of the food being cooked outside on the corner. The interior is as sobering as the façade, where the green Cantera, when the light hits it just right, will remind you of another city of emerald. The high ceilings are vaulted, the style is baroque, and the walls are thick in stature and history. There is a hush throughout this massive structure, where the religious artwork is only outdone by the altars, richly carved in wood and covered in gold. It can be a historic visit, a spiritual one, or just a cool respite to sit and rest up for the next stop in this magical city.

There are many religious temples to visit, too many to list. One callout is Templo de Santos Domingo de Guzmán, a Dominican convent dating back to 1572, when construction began. It, too, had challenges with seismic activity over the centuries. After your free visit to the church, check out the old convent, home to the Regional Museum of Oaxaca. For fresh air and a walk in the garden, directly nearby is the Jardin Etnobotanico of Oaxaca. Botanical gardens are my favorite in the morning.

There are many other historical buildings to see; most are free and rarely crowded. Everyone who visits this city comes for many different reasons; the cultural experience is sobering, while the shopping is intoxicating. The markets are a plethora of color, creativity, and cuisine. Like the houses of Christianity, each offers its own perspective.

The city’s most popular mercado is named after Mexico’s first indigenous president, and Oaxaca native, Benito Juárez. He was instrumental in leading the resistance against the French to create a modern Mexico. The Juarez market has hundreds of stalls, where you can find beautiful woven fabrics, local and international spices, freshly butchered meat, and a selection of fresh vegetables. All this shopping will make you hungry. With so many choices of where to eat, I suggest one with a stool so you can watch the cooks in action; the Iron Chef has nothing on these local vendors. Once you have had your fill, there is, of course, a highly diversified selection of magnets for your fridge collection.

If excellence and artistic integrity are your jam, I suggest the Oaxaca Artisan Market, where craftsmanship and color explode. If that special gift is on your list, or something different, this Mercado should definitely be pinned on your phone or circled on that paper map. The vendors are friendly, and the creativity is only second to the quality.

We all know what comes next after all this exploring, hunger pains. This is the city to be hungry in, Oaxacan food is by far my favorite in all of Mexico — sorry, Yucatán. There are eateries on every street that offer everything from local traditional food, served in unassuming family-run establishments, to more advanced preparations in more tastefully decorated environments. Whatever you choose, you cannot go wrong with what’s on the menu.

Moles are the most well-known and my favorite; in Oaxaca, there are seven varieties, all with a distinct flavor and color. The black or negro is the most popular, followed by the verde or green. Moles are perhaps the first authentic fusion dish of the old and new worlds, complex sauces filled with chilies, spices, and even a bit of chocolate. The first cookbook celebrating this combination of taste and history was El Cocinero Mexicano, published in 1780.

Other foods unique to the area are tlayudas, or, better known to me, Oaxacan pizza. A crispy tortilla, smothered in black bean paste, and topped with cheese. Meat or no meat, your choice. Very hearty, and it will fill the void before a fancy dinner. Mezcal, the most famous drink, is served before or after any meal, and originated here in Oaxaca. With many tasting rooms throughout the city, it is a must to sit and sip this smooth elixir, and do not forget to order the Chapulines; nothing goes better with an aged Mezcal than a bowl of toasted grasshoppers.

After a few days wandering the streets, I recommend getting out of Dodge, no pun intended. There are many ways to explore the area outside of the valley. The landscape is green and fertile, dotted with mountains and open spaces. Driving is a breeze, and renting a car for the day is even easier. Nothing like wheels in a foreign city to step up your explorations.

Get an early start and make a day of it. A 70-km drive from the center of the city is a natural formation not seen anywhere else, hierve el agua is precisely as the translations say; the water boils. Isolated in the thick oak forest are two cliffs rising abruptly from the valley, where a set of waterfalls is frozen in time. Mother Nature has a hand in this one. The fresh water, highly mineralized with calcium carbonate, trickled over the cliffs, creating a stone waterfall. Think of them as giant stalactites that hold the cave. You can drive to the top and swim on the cliff’s edge if you are daring, or view from a distance in awe.

On the way back to the city, a stop in Mitla for lunch and a stroll to the archaeological site of the same name is another must. San Pablo Villa de Mitla is the official name of this rustic village, home to buildings older than those in the United States. Located 40 km from where your morning started, it offers a variety of activities. Local restaurants are serving freshly made food, there are ruins, and it is also known for its handmade textiles. Along the main street, several workshops hand-weave beautiful textiles on old-fashioned wooden looms. The doors are usually open, and they love visitors, especially those who watch a craft thought to be lost. If a new bedspread is in your future, the prices here are unbelievably reasonable, and the artisan will shake your hand.

For another day trip, continuing with the theme of soaking in nature, a drive in the opposite direction, up through the windy mountain roads above the clouds, would be a good option. Just 70 km away, the tall Mexican white pine tree forest welcomes you. Your destination is the Mirador de Cristal de Ixtlan, also known as the Sky Bridge, high in the Sierra Norte. One of the highest glass bridges in Latin America, offering unparalleled views of the mountains and valley below. If you go, be warned: you must remove your shoes before walking across the glass, and be sure there are no holes in your socks.

If You Go

FLIGHTS: Volaris offers daily nonstop flights to Oaxaca International Airport (OAX) from Mérida (MID). The flight time is 1:39 and leaves early in the morning. Uber can’t pick up at the airport, but can drop off. Taxis are plentiful and not that expensive to get you to the city center.

HOTELS: Hotel Casa de la Tia Tere, my favorite for a traditional property in the center of the city. Located on a quiet street, it offers a variety of rooms. I suggest going for the bungalow, a king-size bed, a private kitchenette, and a garden view. They do a cooked breakfast daily, and the pool is refreshing. AC/WIFI is a given.

CARS: Booking.com is extremely easy and low-cost when used from a Mexican phone. Download the app and select car rentals in the city center, with pickup and drop-off included. Seriously easy, breezy, and of course, I waive the insurance as AMEX can be so helpful. Fox or Keddy are my first choice.

FOOD: Labo Fermento is a short walk from the hotel in the historic center. They have an extensive beer, wine, and mezcal list, which is always a good start. Dishes include local fare such as smoked trout, rockfish, and grilled squash on a tasting menu. Finish it off with a prickly pear shaved ice infused with lemon grass.

FOOD: Trattoria Tamburini Italiana is also close by, and on a cold, rainy night, a hearty bowl of pasta does the trick. I loved this little eatery on a corner, with lots of windows for people-watching. The carbonara is my go-to, but the linguini al Frutti di Mare was delicious. The wine was adequate, and the tiramisu made with mascarpone sealed the deal.

TOURS: GuruWalk.com is my go-to for tours in any city worldwide. A tour guide myself, I like to take a busman’s holiday and let someone else do the work. The Murals and Arts of Jalatiaco Walking Tour was outstanding. Edward works completely on tips, is professional, and very knowledgeable. It was a great two-hour walk. I learned the difference between street art and graffiti; the former is actually sanctioned by the city in the oldest section. Free; gratuity suggested.